Brian Mcaleese
What I love about surfing is the freedom I get when I'm riding a wave. No one can tell you how to do it. You kind of have to figure it out on your own. I am free and can be myself and can move or go in any direction I want. I love that kind of freedom from the sport and the water. All my negative thoughts and stress drifts away while I’m in the water. My relationship between my body, the surfboard and the water is fluid. I’m able to get a great cardio workout and upper body workout when paddling but it never feels like I'm pushing myself to exercise. It's intuitive in that way.
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